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American burgers come to Rome
Rome Daily American, January 19, 1986

Rome – Big Burg, Hot Burger and Speedy Burger are just a few of the fast-food palaces that have introduced Romans to the world of soft buns, thick milkshakes, slow-drip ketchup and café Americano.

Now the greatest promoter of the beef patty, McDonald's, the colossal, red and yellow arched American hamburger chain, has decided to set up shop in Rome and lure the city's finicky eaters and tourists with its world-famous Big Mac and special sauces.

McDonald's is said to be eyeing Rugantino, the famous restaurant in Trastevere, for its eventual location, but it would be better off locating near the Vatican, says Giancarlo Celli, president of Services for Modern Restaurants.

A fast-food counter next to St. Peter's historic colonnade could guarantee $500 million yearly from the hundreds of thousands of hungry tourists that cross the square daily, says Celli.

To be profitable, fast-food operators in Rome need to serve at least 300,000 customers a day, says Celli, "and the Vatican represents the maximum in excellent business and a good prospective for output."

Belgium's GB Quick is also eying Rome's historic centre to set up shop. It could be the Pantheon, Campo dei Fiori or Via Cola di Rienzo.

"Rome is a difficult city with a great number of bureaucratic problems, that up until now have been obstacles for our projects," Celli laments. "It's almost been one year that we've been negotiating with Rome, but we think that by 1986, we will inaugurate the first Quick in Rome."

McDonald's is expected to fare better than the other burger chains, says Celli, but not if they locate in Trastevere. "Trastevere is not a wise choice, because Romans are attached to their neighbourhoods and their historic importance."

McDonald's doesn't seem worried. Word from the chain's European head office says an outlet will open in Rome shortly, and it will be in the city's historic centre.

Newcomers are sure to face a tough Roman bureaucracy, and soaring property taxes, says Armando Coletto of Burger One. "It's difficult to find a locale with at least 400 square metres in the historic centre. It was much easier operating our Venice location, next to a 600-year-old church, than it is to discuss matters with Rome's politicians.

Ludovico Gatto, Rome's culture councillor says, "I'm not against sandwich shops or fast food, but these types of places are fine in other parts of the city, not in the heart of a city with a cultural vocation that should be respected."